Best shrimp food: staples, biofilm boosters and treats
In an established, planted tank, shrimp spend most of their day grazing biofilm and algae. Prepared food tops that up. Owners broadly agree on three categories: a staple fed every day or two, a powder or biofilm booster for babies, and occasional vegetables or leaves. Below, we compare published ingredients and guaranteed analysis. We haven't run feeding trials ourselves.
| Food | Type | Protein (per label) | Notable ingredients | Owner notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dennerle Shrimp King Complete | Sinking sticks, daily staple | 31% crude | Black soldier fly larvae meal, nettle, mulberry leaves, spirulina, chlorella | Frequently named as a favorite staple; water-stable. Maker suggests ~5 mm per 20 shrimp every 1–2 days. |
| Hikari Shrimp Cuisine | Small sinking pellets (1.2–1.4 mm) | Min. 40% crude (current US label) | Fish meal, krill, seaweed, spirulina, astaxanthin; minerals including calcium carbonate | Widely available in US stores. Contains copper sulfate; Hikari says it's a safe, measured amount (see caveat). |
| GlasGarten Bacter AE | Micro powder, biofilm booster | n/a | Amino acids, enzymes, Bacillus subtilis, Pediococcus acidilactici | Shrimp breeders like Flip Aquatics credit it with better shrimplet survival. Not a complete food. |
| Dried leaves (e.g. Indian almond, mulberry) | Grazing surface / fiber | n/a | Leaf tissue, tannins | Grows biofilm as it breaks down; tannins tint the water slightly. |
How much and how often
The most common owner advice is to feed small and remove leftovers. Feed only what the colony clears in a couple of hours, and take out anything left after a day; Dennerle's own guidance is to remove residue after 24 hours. Overfeeding is a frequently cited cause of cloudy water and planaria outbreaks in shrimp tanks.
Feeding babies
Shrimplets graze the same surfaces as adults but can't compete for pellets. Powdered foods drift across the whole tank, and biofilm boosters like Bacter AE grow the microfilm babies feed on. GlasGarten recommends starting at half dose for the first week.
Vegetables and treats
Blanched zucchini, spinach or cucumber are common treats. Use organic or well-washed produce, since pesticides are a frequent worry in owner discussions, and remove it within a few hours.
How to choose a shrimp food
- Start with one staple. A sinking stick or pellet made for shrimp, fed every day or two, covers the basics.
- Check the size and sink speed. Small pellets and sticks reach the bottom before fish or currents scatter them, and they can be broken to suit small colonies.
- Read the label. Look at protein, fiber and minerals. Plant-heavy, fiber-rich foods suit shrimp grazing habits; very high-protein foods are typically fed sparingly.
- Add a powder if you're breeding. A biofilm booster or baby food helps shrimplets that can't compete for pellets.
- Rotate. Owners commonly rotate two or three foods and add leaves or vegetables for variety.
Adjusting portions to your tank
There's no fixed amount, because a planted, mature tank provides much of the food naturally. A common approach is to feed a small amount, watch how quickly the colony gathers and clears it, and adjust. If food is still sitting there after a few hours, feed less next time. New tanks with little biofilm often need slightly more frequent feeding than established ones. Many keepers also skip a day each week.
Understanding the label
Aquarium food labels list a guaranteed analysis: crude protein, fat, fiber, ash and moisture. These are lab-method categories, not a measure of quality. "Crude protein" counts all nitrogen-containing material, and "ash" is the mineral content left after burning a sample, which includes calcium useful for molting. Comparing two foods on protein percentage alone can mislead: a 31% food built on insect meal and leaves and a 40% food built on fish and krill meal are designed around different feeding philosophies.
The ingredient list is ordered by weight, so the first few items tell you what the food mostly is. Shrimp-focused brands often lead with plant matter, leaves or insect meal; general aquarium brands more often lead with fish meal. Both approaches are widely used. If you keep a mixed tank with fish, remember the fish will compete for anything that sinks slowly.
Building a simple weekly routine
A pattern many keepers describe looks like this: a staple stick or pellet three or four days a week, a leaf left in the tank permanently for grazing, a vegetable treat once a week, and a powder or biofilm booster a couple of times a week if babies are present. One day a week with no food lets the colony clean up biofilm and leftovers. Treat this as a starting point; watch your shrimp and your water quality, and adjust.
Signs you're feeding the right amount
- Shrimp gather at food within minutes and disperse to graze afterwards.
- Little or nothing is left after a few hours.
- Water stays clear, and pest populations such as planaria don't suddenly boom.
- Shrimp spend most of their time picking at plants, wood and glass, which is normal grazing behavior, not a sign of hunger.
Common mistakes
- Overfeeding. Uneaten food fouls water and is commonly linked to planaria, hydra and cloudy water.
- Feeding a lot in a brand-new tank. With few shrimp and little bacteria, leftovers break down into ammonia. Feed lightly while the tank matures.
- Relying on fish flakes. Shrimp will eat them, but they float, scatter and aren't formulated for shrimp mineral needs.
- Using unwashed vegetables. Pesticide residue is a frequent concern; blanch and rinse well, or use organic produce.
- Changing everything at once. Introduce new foods gradually and watch how the colony responds.
FAQ
What is the best food for cherry shrimp?
There isn't a single best food. A shrimp-specific staple such as Shrimp King Complete or Hikari Shrimp Cuisine, plus leaves and occasional vegetables, is what owners most often describe. Cherries graze biofilm and algae between feedings.
How often should I feed shrimp?
Many keepers feed once a day or every other day, in small amounts. In a mature, planted tank, every few days can be enough. Adjust based on whether food is cleared.
Can shrimp go without food for a week?
In an established tank with plenty of biofilm and algae, owners commonly report shrimp doing fine for a week or so while the keeper is away. A newly set-up tank has less natural food.
Is Bacter AE necessary?
No. It's a supplement aimed at boosting biofilm, especially for shrimplets. Many colonies breed without it; breeders who use it credit it with better baby survival.
Is copper in shrimp food dangerous?
Copper is toxic to invertebrates at elevated levels, but foods contain trace amounts as a nutrient, and many keepers feed them without problems. If it worries you, choose foods that don't list copper sulfate.
What vegetables can shrimp eat?
Blanched zucchini, spinach, cucumber and kale are commonly fed. Remove leftovers within a few hours to protect water quality.
Our take
A staple stick or pellet such as Shrimp King Complete or Hikari Shrimp Cuisine, plus a biofilm booster if you're raising babies, plus leaves for grazing, covers what most keepers recommend. Variety matters more than any single brand.
Sources: Dennerle Shrimp King Complete product page and declaration; Hikari USA Shrimp Cuisine product page; GlasGarten Bacter AE product page; Flip Aquatics Bacter AE listing; ShrimpTank101 feeding guide; Practical Fishkeeping "Big shrimp food test"; r/shrimptank (2024–2026). Checked October 2026.